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Nome: Jon Ang-Angco Data: 07-11-2006 Cod. di rif: 2665 E-mail: giovanni.angco@gmail.com Oggetto: Discorso dialettico sulle scarpe Commenti: Egregio Gran Maestro, Egregi Cavalieri, Sono Jon Ang-Angco (Giovanni), and a good friend of Giona Granata, Adamo De Togni, and Tommaso Carrara. They have urged me to write since they believe that I may have a few little things to contribute to the group. To briefly introduce myself, I am a Molecular Biologist who is also interested in the bespoke arts and how they can help assist us to achieve comfort in dressing, and so, present an elegant image. I have tried to explore and commission works from various artisans to help me find an appropriate wardrobe that reflects my needs and desires. A wardrobe that is both functional, useful, and one that reflects my own personal taste - hopefully one that also has a small touch of grace. My friends and I often discuss the various methods and stylistic sensibilities of Su Misura in different countries, how they are similar to each other, where the differences are, and ultimately, to discuss what is ‘true’ su misura, and what is “Made to order”. Giona and I were recently discussing footwear, comparing the methods of artisans in various countries, mainly Italy and England, and to a lesser extent, France. We discussed how the general belief is that England produces the finest, most elegant bespoke (su misura) shoes in the world, and that John Lobb (U.K) it the ultimate, the “Mount Olympus” of all such shoes. Of the English shoemakers, I have several shoes made by G.J Cleverley, the store established by the famous Mr. Cleverley who popularized the ‘chisel toe’. Of the French shoemakers, I have had shoes made by the “French” John Lobb, and one pair by Berluti. In Italy, I have shoes in the process of being finished by Maestro Riccardo Bestetti and one in process with Maestro Paolo Scafora. In discussing with Giona how the English shoemakers work, we have come to the conclusion that English shoes have less ‘variety’ in workmanship when we compare it to the way the Italians (and to some extent) and French work. In England, many bespoke shoemaking companies such as H. Maxwell, G.J Cleverley, John Lobb, Edward Green, etc. are really only distingushed from each other by their inhouse lastmaker and patternmaker. Most of the stitching of the leathers, the welting, the lasting, the sole making, and the finishing is done by a small group of artisans… This small group is utilized by all of the bespoke shoemakers in England, even by bespoke shoemakers as far as Sweden! When you place an order with such an establishment, your measurements are taken and then it is interpreted into a last (‘forma’) by the store’s lastmaker. The type of shoe that you desire is a little more restricted by the willingness of the store to make modifications to the existing model patterns that they have. This ‘pattern’ for your shoe is also cut from the leather in-house. Then the your last and the cut pieces of leather are sent out to be made into a shoe by the abovementioned group of artisans. In short, there is only a very small group of artisans who ‘make’ the bespoke shoes, and this group is shared by all the houses! Contrast this if you will to the way the Italians and French make a shoe. I visited the John Lobb (Paris) workshop when my shoe was being made. All the work on my shoe, from the lastmaking, pattern cutting, sewing, lasting, sole attachement, and finishing was done in-house. There is a lastmaker, a welter, a finisher, etc. The small group of workers work specifically for John Lobb (Paris) and are all located the Lobb Paris workshop. This is in stark contrast to the manner John Lobb (London) makes a shoe. The French are quite able to make any design that you want. You may not be able to do so with a more conservative firma like John Lobb (Paris), but there are other, smaller establishments who can do anything you would want. In this aspect, the French shoemakers are like the Italians. In Italy, it is even more ‘artigianale’. They will make any design that you would wish for. Almost all shoemakers can and will make a shoe from the measureing stages, to the lastmaking, welting, lasting, etc.…. This sometimes means that ONE MAN is responsible for making your shoe. This has two VERY important meanings: 1) Each shoe is UNIQUE, you will not find the same work done by another shoemaker. This is because each Italian shoemaker is independent from the other. 2) Each shoe is a display of the shoemaker’s skill. This is because in Italy, the important steps of shoe construction (lastmaking, welting, solemaking) are done by one man. As such, the shoe is a product of the Italian shoemaker’s combined knowledge, a wearable encyclopaedia and artform! One important fact to note regarding the shoemakers for the countries described above. The leather that are used for the bespoke shoes are all from the same sources . There are not that many factories left who produce such top quality skins, and all artisans from all the countries above have access to, and use such skins. There may be those who complain that the Italian shoemaker sometimes make very outrageous designs and colouration for shoes. While this is true, they can also make the more conservative designs. The more flamboyant designs that they show is mainly to display their ability in such complex skills such as leather antiquing, handstitching, and welting. Another major difference between the shoemaking countries – how they do the fitting (prova). 1) England: There is no prova shoe. Your shoe is constructed and corrections are made to the completed shoe. 2) Italy: There is almost always a prova shoe made in cheaper leather. This prova can either be just a simple oxford shoe, or it can even be in the exact model of the final shoe. 3) France: In my experience with the two French makers, Berluti will make you a prova shoe which you must use for at least one month. Afterwards, they will analyse the way the prova fits, and they can also see how your style of walking affects the sole. John Lobb (Paris) makes a prova but in plastic! A plastic prova is made based on the last that they have created for you, and this is what they use to check if the forma is correctly made to your foot. A fews years ago, Lobb (Paris) used to make a leather prova, but they have stopped doing so because they said that the plastic prova is as good a method to check the forma. I think it is to cut cost. In my own opinion, it is mainly in Italy that you will find a ‘true’ shoemaker; one who can and will make a shoe for you in any design that you wish. One person who will measure, design, welt, last, and finish your shoe.. Not like the English companies who depend on a small (and shrinking) group of artisans who do the work for most of the shoemakers. The French system is somewhat in between the Italians and the British – some do a prova, some can make any design you want, and some very small ateliers are one man operations where they do all the work themselves. Which country would you say still maintain the true Bespoke shoemaking tradition? ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Nome: Jon Ang-Angco Data: 18-12-2006 Cod. di rif: 2794 E-mail: giovanni.angco@gmail.com Oggetto: Risposte: Blazer Commenti: Egregio Signor Rubin, I will start with your comment about having 3 buttons on the cuff instead of 4 so that you can differentiate this blazer from your other coats. For my suits, I 'normally' have 3 buttons on the cuffs because I am not very tall, and for me, 3 buttons on the cuff is more in balance with my sleeve length than the usual 4. But to alter the number of buttons just for the sake of difference seems too much of an artifice. What I would prefer to do is that the cut of the coat and the fabric which will create the difference. A blazer is already a bit longer than the usual coat, so that in and of itself already sets it apart. What I think makes for a "stagioni intermedie" coat is a hopsack or a sharkskin (grisaglia). There are many many different shades of Navy, and the choice of Navy will also give a certain character to the coat. A lighter navy makes it more informale, while a more midnight navy would make the coat appear more serious. Regarding the fodera, this is one place where I believe you have more freedom of choice. I personally like "Shot" satin fodera: where one side is one colour, and the other side of the fodera another. There is almost a 3 dimensional effect. Of course, it would be wise to have the dominant colour of the fodera to be complimentary to the colour of the blazer. Cordiali saluti, Jon Ang-Angco ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Nome: Jon Ang-Angco Data: 24-01-2007 Cod. di rif: 2846 E-mail: Giovanni.angco@gmail.com Oggetto: Amsterdam e scuola sartoriale Olandese Commenti: Egregio Sig. Ghislanzoni, I am sorry to inform you that in Olanda there is no true sartoria.. there is only "Made to Measure", and it is nothing like what you have in Italy. Nothing for camicie or abiti. There are shoemakers, but the costa and qualita is again nothing like Italy. There are larger 'fashion' stores here, especially in Amsterdam like Oger, but most of the clothing that is sold is the ready to wear from Borelli, Kiton, Attolini... all the brands from Italy. My suggestion: do not buy in Holland (I never do, I always go to Italy to have my clothes made)! Although there are other 'things' that make my country nice, just not clothing! Cordiale saluti, Jon Ang-Angco ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Nome: Jon Ang-Angco Data: 30-01-2007 Cod. di rif: 2862 E-mail: giovanni.angco@gmail.com Oggetto: Again on "Dutch tailoring" Commenti: Egrigio Sig. Ghislanzoni, The shoemakers I mentioned are not in Amsterdam unfortunately. They are in Rotterdam and in Gouda.. The most 'famous' of Dutch shoemakers is called "Il Maestro" (Mischa Bergshoeff) and you can see his work here: http://www.ilmaestro.nl/00000098330d5b5ad/index.html Not my taste. I know you can get much nicer su misura scarpe in Italy, for a better price. In Amsterdam, John Lobb (London) visit the store Oger to do measurements and fitting for thier su misura scarpe. Kind Regards, Jon Ang-Angco ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Nome: Jon Ang-Angco Data: 31-01-2007 Cod. di rif: 2867 E-mail: giovanni.angco@gmail.com Oggetto: Again on "Dutch tailoring" Commenti: Egrigio Sig. Ghislanzoni, I forgot to mention regarding the topics of tailors in Holland: Maestri Luciano e Adamo De Togni travel to Holland to meet with their clients here. Cordiali saluti, Jon Ang-Angco ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- |
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