The clothes we wear do not just protect us
from the cold or satisfy the elementary need for modesty. Rather than
cover us up, indeed, what they do is reveal us; rather than conceal
us, they speak of us.
Clothing is a highly evolved
and complex language which we can handle to our advantage, finding
in its mysterious terminology that pleasure of expressing ourselves
to the full. Just as in the "main" forms of communication,
through the silent succession of generations and needs, history and
habit have led to the establishment of certain norms. The mastery
of these norms allows us to capture a space for freedom while seeming
to be constrained within a rigid scheme, and to be the true arbitrators
of our own personal Style. It is common to think today that dress
rules give rise to an image which is excessively rigid, limiting individual
expression. As a result the strategies have become to mock
and play down. In our view this attitude is too simplistic,
and behind a liberating appearance two dangerous mistakes are concealed.
Let us take an artist like Dante – if
we may be permitted to use such a bold example. Not only did he not
feel constrained by the rules of metrics, he also forced himself into
the agony of the concatenated "terza rima", besides the
scheme of the hexameter. This did not prevent him bringing us some
of the finest poetry known to humankind. It is not the paradigm which
should worry us, but rather the lack of things to say. Let us remember
that the language of dress speaks of us whether we want it to or not.
Those who have something to express will find in its golden dogmas
an encouragement rather than a limitation, a method rather than an
impediment. Cutting a diamond makes the stone smaller and runs the
risk of breakage, but it is only through the precision of cutting
that the light Nature wished to give it is revealed. It is a question
of style and proportions, where the slightest detail may have its
expressive relevance. The "mocker" may like to parade with
the harsh note of a flashy tie or a designer label. Drums in the forest.
The skilful conductor of a much more complex orchestra, the Elegant
Man reveals his class to his peers in the exact measure of a lapel
or the neatness of a cuff.
Secondly we believe that there is nothing Man needs less than being
played down and mocked. After all, everything great and lasting he
has created has been produced in the name of sentiment, and therefore
of drama, in other words in the name of belief in an ideal, nourishing
the sense - secular or religious – of the sacred.
Anyone who underestimates or neglects these
principles will inevitably find himself a victim to the vices and
pathology of every language: banality, inexactitude, vulgarity, even
as far as blasphemy. Instead, those who achieve full mastery of this
noble subject may reach the highest goals of style: correctness, eloquence
and even – may we say - Poetry itself.
Just as Talking, Writing or Painting are both
technique and art, Dressing is no less and the individual results
depend on two factors. On the one hand there is personal disposition,
an innate quality which everyone may or may not feel. On the other
is technique, science, knowledge of the grammar, syntax, materials
and the work of the Greats who preceded and inspired it.
It is those who feel they
are called to meet the great daily challenge of Elegance that we are
addressing with this Door. It is designed to provide an introduction
to textiles and materials, occasions and their most subtle rules,
garments and their accessories, as well as anything that can be worn
and why and how it can or must be worn.
Jackets and ties are not the only issue. The
Door of Dress will make suggestions for any occasion to anyone requiring
them and will attempt to reply to each individual request and requisite.
Any suggestions are welcome in the space for correspondence and we
will try to respond to all queries, in respect of that single aesthetic
goal we consider to be Good Taste.
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